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userhead Delphium
Replies (18)
  • You Reply:
    lattepanda wrote: If you've already emailed us however didn't get the response yet. Sorry for the inconvenience. We may not notice your mail in hundreds of them...
    And please re-send it again.
    Pardon me but if the LP team are flooded by e-mails already, then surely the answer is not to advise everyone to swamp you with even more e-mails.

    LP Team, please work through the backlog of mails, if we all start sending mails regarding our issues again then this will take the LP team even longer to wade through all the mail to respond to each users issues.
  • You Reply: Bingo, Thanks!
  • You Reply: **
    Likewise I was expecting a 64bit install of windows as this is what all our software projects are aimed at.

    How does one go about correcting this issue and ensure that the 64bit edition is installed, which lattepanda image would I need to use?
  • You Reply: The only pre installed software I found was a very old version of the Ardunio IDE which needed to be reinstalled for a more recent edition (1.6.4) in my case as this has proven to be stable and compatible with a plethora of librarys.

    You can of cause download Visual Studio Community Edition free of charge which is what I have installed.
  • You Reply: Using the HDMI output and a Targus docking station that has Intel Display Link over USB3.0 I was able to have the LattePanda detect 3 separate displays in the windows display properties, I had enabled 2 out of the 3 outputs however so I am unable to confirm if the 3rd output will activate.

    According to various Intel Cherry Trail chipset specifications, the Cherry Trail is able to output to 2 monitors, although windows may of cause detect more than this, but only allow 2 to operate at any time.
  • You Reply: Likewise I have now also added a couple of RPi copper heat sink blocks and a 40mm fan attached to the case vents.
    I decided to take the heat spreader off and applied the heat sinks directly to the various chips below it, this JUST fits inside the plastic case for the LP, with the fan mounted on the exterior of the case.

    I have been running Prime95 along with a openGL audio visulization app for just over 5 hours now and the LP has remained solid on a 5V@2.5A PSU, the highest temp I achieved in the 5hours according to RealTemp was 71C peak, the average temp was around 55-60C (depending on core), however before this mod I was often hitting the thermal limit of 90C and have noticed much less thermal throttling due to this.

    In all, it seems the LP does require some additional cooling over that of the heat spreaders provided.

    Now to mod the case design for a deeper bottom and fire up the laser cutter so I can fit my fan internally along with the heat sinks!
  • You Reply:
    LatteROFLCOPTER wrote:He did put one on the CPU.

    See the pic at 8:51.
    Ahhh, OK, my bad, evidently I missed that.
  • You Reply:
    PARKER wrote:https://youtu.be/XGjLYezHU10

    Managed to get the cpu to drop by 10 / 15c see vid above
    Thanks for posting, although I do have a couple of questions.

    From what I can see in the video, you have placed the heatsink block onto the eMMC (hard drive) and RAM, but I did not spot one mounted on the actual CPU itself.

    Did you test this with a block on the actual CPU? Despite the board not being able to lay flat or such, id still be interested in the performance gains of connecting the heatsink to the CPU rather than the eMMC or RAM chips.

    Also FYI, the "plaster" piece of material that you removed at 3:22 in the video is thermal compound tape which helps to transfer heat from the CPU to the metal case/heat spreader covering the CPU and couple of other chips.
    In your video you described this being a heat insulator/heat resistive (preventing the spread of heat) rather than what it correctly is, which is a heat conductor (helping to transfer heat to the metal case).

    I had already purchased some heat sinks and fans before watching this video, and they arrived this morning.
    I am however seeking to download the acrylic case design and extend the bottom out and cut out another with a laser cutter that would allow me to fit the heat sinks and a fan in the belly of the LattePanda, ill be sure to drop pics when done.
  • You Reply: Hi, I have a plethora of services installed on my Panda now including visual studio, mysql and IIS web server.

    To begin with I was experiencing some stability issues when running intensive tasks such as compiling or hitting the web server hard with lots of requests or image manipulation.

    These stability issues went away once I used a yet even more beefy power supply.
    I was using the 5V@2A wall socket phone charge device previously which would run the panda for a while before it would just freeze when given a high work load.

    After swapping out to a PSU that can provide 5V@2.5A I have not had any issues since.

    I intend to use the Panda in a project that involves a web server so I needed this thing to be solid as a rock.
    Thus far with the new power source I have been running a web server with mysql for nearly a week now (currently on day 6) while I have also been throwing lots at it such as 3D visual benchmarks and hammering the F5 in a broswer to hammer the panda.
    Note that this is nearly a week of constant running without a single freeze or reboot.

    Since swapping to a 5V@2.5A power source i have had zero issues with regards to stability.

    I have however experienced issues in terms of the CPU being throttled back to just 400MHz at 70-80C!! due to the CPU reaching its thermal limit.
    To combat this I have ordered some small fans and heat sinks to mount onto the panda to see if I can reduce its thermal throttling, although these have not yet arrived so I am unable to say if this makes much difference at this time.

    EDIT:- note that the storage IO speeds are not great and the Panda is limited in RAM so be sure to setup your webserver so that it wont max out your RAM on page loads etc.
  • You Reply: Here is a quick sample script that would allow you to run a python script on the windows 10 side of the lattepanda, and have it return this time upon request from the arudnio.

    DateTime.py

    Code: Select all

    import datetime #import the date and time libary. import serial #import the serial libary. data = "" #set variable data to blank. board = serial.Serial('COM3', 9600, timeout=.1) #setup a serial connection to our 'board' on COM Port 3 at 9600buad transfer rate. while True: #while the serial has recieved data from the ardunio do the following tasks. x = board.read() #read the first byte from the serial buffer and store it into variable x. if x == "#": #if variable x is equal to the # sign then reset our data captured back to blank, this char is used to reset our 'data' string. data = "" #set the variable 'data' to blank. else: #if variable x is not # then add the byte to the data string. if x == "@": #if variable x is equal to the @ sign then print the recieved message and do some addtional tasks. print data #display the message recieved to the console. if data == "DateTime" #if the reconstructed recieved message is equal to "DateTime" then request the date and time from the operating system. DateTime = strftime("%Y-%m-%d %H:%M:%S") #grab the date and time from the OS and format it accordingly. board.write("#") #send the opening char. board.write(DateTime) #send the date and time. board.write("@") #send the ending char. else: #continue to recieve the message from serial data += x #add the value of variable x to the data string.
    Use the following code on the ardunio to recieve the data and time message from the python script to the arudnio.

    sketch001.ino

    Code: Select all

    char x; String Data; String DataTemp; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); } void loop() { Read(); //do something, the variable 'DataTemp' should hold the returned message from the pythin script, in this instance the date and time. } void Read() { while(Serial.available()>0) { x = Serial.read(); if (x == '#') { Data = ""; } else { if (x == '@') { DataTemp = Data; } else { Data += x; } } } } :note I have not tested these code samples but have used parts of them in my own projects and works quite well, hopefully this will point you in the right direction to eb able to modify this code to your needs.
  • You Reply: Run a python script to listen on serial for a command and respond with the win10 system time?
  • You Reply: You may wish to keep an eye on this github - https://github.com/LattePandaTeam/Latte ... 0-Software
    Which states that along with BIOS's, driver packages will also be available here, although evidently not yet.
  • You Reply:
    Raymond Day wrote:[url=http://up-shop.org/up-boards/44-up-boar ... -emmc.html]
    Maybe this one will auto start up when you plug in power. Not sure.
    -Raymond Day
    Auto power on is fixed - viewtopic.php?p=234#p234
  • Topic: RDP?
    You Reply: Sadly Windows Home edition as you point out only has a RDP client and not the server side.
    You would need to purchase an upgrade licence for Professional to use RDP server.

    You can use VNC server as a limited alternative as you say, another solution is an IP-KVM/audio bit of hardware, tho this is going to cost more than a professional licence for windows 10.
  • Topic: Battery
    You Reply: I have used a battery USB charger device to power my LP for long periods of time (few hours) without issues.
    The battery pack I use is a Lithium-Ion rather Lithium-Polymer.

    Having worked with Lithium-Polymer batteries before, they should work just fine so long as they are connected to the LP via a 5V@2A regulator (for example a pair of Texas Instruments UA7805 wired in parallel will provide 5V at up to 3A, enough to drive the LP and most attached devices.

    The Ti-UA7805 requires a minimum working voltage of 7V.

    Of cause a single healthy Lithium-Polymer battery typically outputs (on average) at 3.7V (4.2V max), thus you need to wire up 2 cells in series to get to 7.4V (8.4V max) combined, you could use a 3rd cell to bring the total input power up to 11.1V (12.6V max).

    The TI-UA7805 has a max input voltage of 25V.

    One can then use this 5V to power the LP via its micro USB power input connection.

    Note other brands/makes/models of voltage regulators are available, I picked Texas Instruments for their reputation, availability and documentation.

    WARNING
    Note that voltage regulators tend to dissipate quite a bit of heat so try to design your projects with as much distance as possible between the batteries and the regulators to avoid any potential fire hazards!
  • You Reply:
    dmolner wrote:Hello,

    How can we know our serial number W10?
    If you are referring to the windows 10 product activation key, then note that Microsoft store this key remotely tied with the devices serial number and other hardware components to make a unique ID.

    As such, should the device need to be reinstalled, then so long as it has been activated online once, then you should be able to active online again without needing to enter in the product activation key as this has been stored on the Microsoft servers for you.

    If you still wish to acquire the Windows 10 Product Activation Key then you can try the following:-

    Code: Select all

    Set WshShell = CreateObject("WScript.Shell") MsgBox ConvertToKey(WshShell.RegRead("HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\DigitalProductId")) Function ConvertToKey(Key) Const KeyOffset = 52 i = 28 Chars = "BCDFGHJKMPQRTVWXY2346789" Do Cur = 0 x = 14 Do Cur = Cur * 256 Cur = Key(x + KeyOffset) + Cur Key(x + KeyOffset) = (Cur \ 24) And 255 Cur = Cur Mod 24 x = x -1 Loop While x >= 0 i = i -1 KeyOutput = Mid(Chars, Cur + 1, 1) & KeyOutput If (((29 - i) Mod 6) = 0) And (i <> -1) Then i = i -1 KeyOutput = "-" & KeyOutput End If Loop While i >= 0 ConvertToKey = KeyOutput End Function
    Paste it to Notepad, click save as, select all files, and name it something.vbs, where something is a name you can remember (I chose keyfinder.vbs - catchy, eh?). Save it to your desktop (or other easily remembered location), run it, and viola. Hit ctrl-c while the window is open, and it copies your key to the clipboard so you can paste it anywhere you may find to be convenient.
    Source
  • You Reply:
    lattepanda wrote:Check out this link!!!! Uploaded auto power on Bios and provided a simple guide also!
    https://github.com/LattePandaTeam/Latte ... 0-Software

    Look forward your testing feedback!

    Thank you!
    I had already started to design a logic circuit to mod the LP to achieve this feature, very glad that the LP team have now updated the BIOS with this feature!
  • You Reply: **, I too would like a solution that does not involve using yet another microprocessor or building a logic gate circuit tied to the button and LED of the LP.