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- You Reply: They also fix some problems with alpha blending and ATSC graphics.
- You Reply: EDIT: I made a mistake about the offset, it should be 0x00440010 and not 0x00044010. I corrected in the first post.
- You Reply: It makes no sense to hold both RESET and POWER for 20s when there is no power applied.
Anyway, trying to follow the steps:
1) When? anytime AFTER powering on? when red led is still lit or blinking? should the red led be off after pressing both buttons? should it be still off after 20s?
2) should red led be off?
3) before powered off, should you hold both RESET and POWER? as far as I know there is no battery to allow the circuit to make anything.
4) anytime AFTER powering off? - You Reply: I just realize that MSDM may not be present (it is not in the BIOS you download from LP GitHub). If it is not present in the original BIOS, it is because there is no installed Win10, registered with a key.
- You Reply: Did you first click on ACPI button? tabs depend on which button you press. And I've already been using this tool on a 32-bit version (my old eeePC I upgraded to Windows 10) and a 64-bit version (my *now-red-blinking-brick* LP) with no trouble.
- You Reply: Gosh again!!!
I have now a blinking red led... I'm fed up with that sh*tty board! A complete failure. - You Reply: Gosh! I did without the 3.3V to 1.8V converter! I could have killed the BIOS chip...
- You Reply: @sounder1990
It appears you may retrieve the first LP after reprogramming the flash. Maybe the second unit as well. May I suggest for you to follow this link. I had a success after reprogramming the flash using a test clip. There is price but it is far less than a LattePanda: a reprogrammer and a test clip. You can find all you need in the link I gave you. When BIOS is back, you probably need to reinstall the windows 10. Again, I was lucky to have everything working (Ethernet, WiFi, Sound, etc.) after it (no need to install drivers). I also have a screen kit I didn't use yet but Windows 10 appears to be aware of such a kit (it tells me that I have two displays whereas I have only an HDMI display is connected - and the name "built-in display" of the second suggests it may the one of the screen kit and win10 notification also asks for a tap-in to configure the device which is probably only relevant for a touchscreen) so it looks my screen kit shouldn't be an issue when I decide to use it. - You Reply: New progress. I was able to retrieve everything online and - after some other operations - a working Windows 10.
So, first you need to reprogram the flash. All the details go here. Once done, I was back at the forever "just a moment..." blue screen. You need to "reinstall" Windows 10. I retrieve the 64-bit image provided here. This is a RAR file so you need an extracter like WinRAR or 7z. The link is not correct:
1) there is no TAR in this archive but a directory "image_XX" where XX should be either "x86" or "x64"
2) you should put the CONTENTS of "image_XX" - not that directory - in the root of a USB key formatted to FAT32 and labeled "WINPE".
3) the process of extracting/copying the contents may be long (~6 Gbytes) so be patient.
4) Once copied/extracted, your USB key should be prepared so unplug it from PC.
5) LP must be powered-off. Plug the USB key on USB 3.0 port (and only there), then power LP on.
6) There will be a long install process.
7) As for me, I chose "out-of-box" with "generalize" unchecked as it is by default at sysprep stage.
8) There will be a long install process again.
9) Just type the necessary information they need as parameters (I was never asked for a key).
There is a time when they ask for rebooting: DON'T FORGET to unplug the USB key beforehand if you don't want restart a reinstall process.
At the end, I may need to add some drivers but Ethernet and WiFi are working well so I wonder if there is a need. - You Reply:
gabe wrote:OK!
HDMI is a complex beast. Not all monitors or TVs are doing the same or totally compliant with all the HDMI figures.
reflash BIOS still no HDMI on touchscreen
Plug-in to TV surprisingly it works.
back to touchscreen, all working now!
Can you explain why?
if I some how lost HDMI again, do I need to follow this procedure again?
I don't know what your HDMI display is and what it needs as input (DVI-D through HDMI?). For instance, some monitors or TV also refuse to display anything if pin 18 of HDMI is not set to 5V.
So it is probable that your TV triggers the necessary steps to register an HDMI output that your other HDMI screen failed to do so. Once registered, you were then able to access the other HDMI screen.
Your posts lack of details:
1) what is your HDMI screen? using HDMI or MPI connector?
2) what is your TouchScreen? using USB or MPI connector?
3) what is your current OS when issues show?
4) did you use display manager to detect screens? - You Reply: Gabe, are you aware that the only graphics "card" in LP is the integrated graphics device? so why did you do that without expecting calling troubles:
"Chipset->North Bridge->Intel IGD Configuration->GOP Driver->Disabled"
"Chipset->North Bridge->Intel IGD Configuration->Integrated Graphics Device->Disabled"
For your information, I would expect for them to be disabled only in case of an external graphics card like nvidia or amd being present and defaulted as main graphics device, which is impossible for LattePanda.
If you want anything be output on HDMI or MPI, you need this IGD. - You Reply: Slightly OFF-topic:
New progress, I downloaded the Windows 64-bit version archive to "unzip" in the root of FAT32 usb key labeled WINPE and let LattePanda boot from it (just plug the usb key before powering LP). A long process occurs but at the end I was able get a working Windows 10 with small exceptions. At least Wifi works so I was able to access Internet. But Ethernet connection appears absent. I probably need to install some drivers from their GitHub.
@LattePanda
Yes, it looks so. I apparently didn't need a key after selecting "out-of-box" with no "generalize" at sysprep stage. I have some weird behaviors about the display manager (the display manager displays [1|2] that I never saw in my life instead of the usual [1][2] and only [1|2] accepts changing its resolution, both 1 and 2 appear to be the same screen as they cannot operate separately) but the HDMI screen is really okay even after setting its resolution to native one. I also have no Ethernet connection despite I have a wire connected to my router.
EDIT:
Good news: Ethernet is really working. I probably didn't fit it correctly. Maybe I didn't really need to install new drivers. - You Reply: So after adding a cooling system, I tested me reflashed LP with the flashed Default BIOS: yes it is now working. I have a screen; keyboard and mouse are online and I could reach BIOS menu. I also tried to update the BIOS to the Auto-Power-On BIOS through USB3 port method and it works also. Now I'm stuck with that forever blue screen "Just a moment...".
- You Reply: My programmer is a CH341A:
615Oix+TdyL._SL1010_.jpg (88.93 KiB) Viewed 11791 times I followed this video and grab the software archive which works fine with this programmer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NYe21nFSDI
And the other can help you for saying how to install the driver:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0ChYNwunUE
I didn't need to watch out the pictures in the first page, I was almost prepared with those videos. As for the test clip, you should find the wire of unique color which normally is for pin 1 and be sure it clips the pin 1 (the pin closest to a dot on the chipset). The other end of the clip test should also follow the same trick.
I didn't have issue for reading or programming.
The next task will be to run LP to see if BIOS is working back. But I still need to find a valid hardware solution for cooling this CPU in first lieu.attachments:
- You Reply: I have my LattePanda reflashed using almost the same reprogrammer. Si I did first read the original content, then try to compare with a bios image we can find in GitHub. Too many differences, no clue about what must be the Windows 10 key I may need to copy in the bios image. I flash the bios image without the change for Windows 10 key. I still need to find some proper ways to help cooling that cpu before running it again with the new bios image and see if I can boot fine. Then I would need to see if Windows 10 can run or be installed without the need of this key... Aft3rburn, can you describe your issue and how you fix it?
- You Reply:
Zzz5123 wrote:The flash job will cover all the code in Bios chip including the KEY part .Because the bios file is for generally use ,I think the KEY part in this file must be all FF. So, if you flash it , you will loss your KEY like forever .Unless you backup it from your bios chip ( the program software can read the chip info. ) or in the system.
That is what I feared. My BIOS probably being corrupted, I will need to cross my fingers to be able to retrieve the KEY supposedly the corruption didn't touch it. Thanks for your instructive answers. - You Reply:
Zzz5123 wrote: The file in the red circle called "DF-BI-7-S70CR110-C45B-001-B"(for the 4G)
Ah yes! I didn't check there was a scroll for the picture.
"DF-BI-7-S70CR110-C34A-001-B" for the 2G version - You Reply:
strawberrymaker wrote: activation key isnt lattepandas problem, more a fault from microsoft. because microsoft decided to use the bios for storing the windows key. Lattepanda uses OEM keys (like all other pc and laptop manufacturers use) and they work only at that machine and the key they used doesnt work anymore after its activated. the key that you read out is just rubbish.
I'm not sure my "key" was ever activated since I was never able to go further than "just a moment please..." blue screen. My concern is where this key is exactly stored. If I want to re-flash their BIOS file, it seems this key will be scratched because the BIOS file is exactly 8 Megabytes long. So I guess I need to know where this key is so I can put at the same place in the BIOS file. Or did I miss something? I'm so angry... - You Reply: Now you know what that LP V1 *SHOULD HAVE* had from the start and what that future V2 *MUST* have:
- robust auto-recovery BIOS (separate dual BIOS firmware and parameters - dual so we could still reboot on the last valid BIOS)
- keep a copy of Windows 10 activation key somewhere so we could retrieve it
- a better way to deal with heat. - You Reply:
Bruno wrote:Auto Bios recovery and a good heat sink solution must be priorities on a new LP revision
**000